Explore the Waterway: 5 Easy, Family-Friendly Hikes

By Helen Earley

This is the fifth and final article in a series of tourism stories about ways to enjoy the Shubenacadie Waterway, funded through the Shubenacadie Canal Commission’s Transitions project.
Check out
A River Runs Through It by Nancy Stapleton, Date Night at the Fourth Lock by Helen Earley, Failure’s Paradise by Jeremy Hull and Un-Lock Your Next Nova Scotia Adventure by Davey and Sky Media.

 

Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre observation platform.
Credit: Tourism Nova Scotia | Photographer: Acorn Art Photography

 

Have you ever explored the Shubenacadie Canal? The history of the Shubenacadie Canal goes back to the mid-1800s when an ambitious (and very expensive) construction project linked Halifax Harbour to the Bay of Fundy by cutting new channels and dams along a lake and river system already used by the Mi’kmaq. In its industrial heyday, flat-bottomed steamboats used the Shubenacadie canal system to transport lumber, bricks, coal, and granite across the province, but its success was short-lived. By 1871, the once-essential “water highway” had been replaced by a new, faster, more resilient form of transportation: steam trains.

The present-day Shubenacadie Waterway system runs roughly along the same path as the railway that replaced it, beginning just below Sullivan’s Pond in Dartmouth and stretching all the way to Maitland where it meets the Bay of Fundy. It features charming ponds and rivers, large, deep lakes, historic canals and locks, and fascinating marshes and wetlands. 

In 1984 The Shubenacadie Commission was formed to preserve the historic features of the waterway and promote it as an exceptional recreation destination. The result is a system of  trails, helpful signage and picnic areas that are easy to navigate, and fun to explore throughout all seasons of the year.

Here are 5 family-friendly adventures along the Shubenacadie Waterway, perfect for an excursion with young children and grandparents.

1. History Hikes at Shubie Park 

 
 

The Shubenacadie Canal Commission’s History Hike is a free, 40-minute guided walking tour to introduce your family to the Shubenacadie canal. As well as learning the history of the canal, you’ll learn about the residents of the Shubie: owls, chickadees, chipmunks, wood ducks, herons, turtles – and occasionally, a beaver!

 
 

A history hike is a great starting point for an afternoon at Shubie Park. For lunch, enjoy a delicious smash burger at the Lockside Canteen by Lemon Dogs, perhaps followed by a cappuccino from mobile coffee shop, Café Lucca. Families with older kids can rent kayaks from Wildwood Water Sports, while those with toddlers will enjoy a simple pathway stroll. Adrenaline junkies can get some air at the Shubie pump track, while in the summertime, you can beat the heat with a swim at Shubie Beach.  

To attend a history hike, there is no need to book ahead. Simply show up at the Shubie Park Trailhead next to the Fairbanks Centre (54 Locks Road B2X 2W7) at 11:00 AM on Wednesday or Saturday (May until the end of October). 

 

History Hike meeting spot.

 

2. Vivien’s Way

Vivien’s Way is a short (400 m) trail through the woods along the shore of Lake Charles, providing quiet lakeside look-offs and plenty of places to rest. To access it, you must first walk along the Lake Charles Trail – a wide, crushed gravel trail, popular with joggers and cyclists. 

 
 

While avid hikers and weekend athletes might approach Vivien’s Way from Shubie Park (8.5 km round trip), families with young children can appreciate the same scenery on a smaller scale by approaching the trail from the Shubie Trailhead at 1027 Waverly Road, where there is ample parking for several cars.

Once you have parked, cross the wooden bridge, veer left, walk under the overpass, and then follow the Trans Canada trail through the woods for about 1 km to reach Vivien’s Way, which is signposted on your left. After completing this charming woodsy stroll, return to the gravel path, and go back the way you came, completing an easy 2.5 km hike, jog, or cycle. 

 
 

3. Oakfield Park

Oakfield Park is a popular day-use provincial picnic park located on Shubenacadie Grand Lake, the seventh and largest lake located in the waterway system, and the perfect location for a family picnic or summer barbecue. An impressive, gentle hill leads to a small beach and swimming area. Just around the corner, the entrance to the Shubenacadie River marks the continuation of the canal system. Step back in time to imagine Grand Lake as a bustling epicentre of industry, full of boats and barges, lumber mills, and quarries! 

 

Oakfield Park Beach.

 

The trails at Oakfield Park don’t have much signage but are otherwise very easy to explore. The Oakfield Park Path is a 4 km loop around the park, traversing fields and wooded areas. A highlight of the trail system is a flat, wooded gravel path parallel to the shoreline, perfect for snowshoeing and cross-country skiing in the winter. The Indian Point loop is the easiest and shortest section of the path. From the picnic area, simply duck into the woods, walk out to the point, and come back again. 

4. Lock 6 Park 

To move boats uphill or downhill, engineers created locks along the canal. A lock can be explained to children as a “water elevator.” A boat enters an elevator full of shallow water, and a door (a sluice gate) is closed behind it. Then, the elevator is flooded with water, floating the boat up to a higher level. Finally, a gate on the other side is opened, and the boat leaves the lock. The boat has “climbed” the water! The purpose of Lock 6 at Horne Settlement, near Enfield, was to divert water away from the rapid-flowing Shubenacadie river, creating a calm passage for boats.

 
 

Lock 6 Park begins with a wooden boardwalk showcasing a rich sedge marsh, where interpretive panels have been placed to acquaint you with the local birdlife such as Black ducks and Eastern wood-peewees (small birds that sing “pee-a-wee!”). Next, you will come across the abandoned lock itself. Depending on the water levels, you can climb down and examine the engineering, (and perhaps, like we did, meet a resident frog!).  Finally, the 1 km trail continues into the mixed forest, where you’ll encounter friendly chipmunks, who dash around beautiful light-dappled trees. The trail is perfect for all-terrain strollers. 

An interesting itinerary would be to make Lock 6 part of your Sunday brunch routine. Begin with breakfast at The Irving Big Stop in Enfield, or the charming Cup of Soul Café in Elmsdale, then embark on a short family walk through Lock 6 Park. 

Lock 6 Park is at Exit 7 off the 102. The address is Lock 6 Park, 66 Arrowhead Dr, Enfield, NS B2T 1G9.

5. The Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre


The Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre marks the point at which the Shubenacadie River meets the Bay of Fundy. A towering lookoff provides families with a front-row seat for the tidal bore: a phenomenon where a tidal wave travels the “wrong way,” against the current of the river. Once you’ve observed nature’s thrilling magic trick, stick around to see the tidal bore rafters – high-speed inflatable boats that follow the muddy bore, providing a hair-raising adventure for tide-tourists.  

 
 

But there’s more to this location than just the lookoff. The Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre houses a small museum that includes a decommissioned caboose from the days of the Dominion Atlantic Railway– a once-thriving railway empire with close connections to the Annapolis Valley apple industry and the Digby Pines hotel. 

The Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre is the perfect place for a family picnic since there are several picnic tables and park benches along the path to the lookoff tower, and clean, well-maintained washrooms inside the building. Behind the interpretive centre, the Wetlands Trail is a 1 km-long pathway along the former railway bed, flanked by forests, apple trees, and marshes. 

 
 

The Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre is about an hour’s drive from Halifax. The address is 9865 Highway 236, South Maitland. The centre operates seasonally, from mid-May until mid-October. Call ahead to arrive for the Tidal Bore. 

Start Exploring!

Once your family begins to explore the Shubenacadie Waterway from a “canal” perspective, it’s hard to stop. You will be surprised at how many already-familiar locations in Nova Scotia are connected to the canal. And, like our family, you may be amazed at how such a short-lived and ultimately unsuccessful construction project from the 1800s could transform into the complex and beautiful network of recreational activities that exists along the waterway today. 

 

View from the Wetlands Trail.

 

All photos credit to Helen Earley. Helen Earley is a Halifax-based travel writer and author of the travel guide 25 Family Adventures in Nova Scotia.

Un-Lock Your Next Nova Scotia Adventure

By Davey And Sky Media

This is the fourth article in a series of tourism stories about ways to enjoy the Shubenacadie Waterway, funded through the Shubenacadie Canal Commission’s Transitions project. Check out A River Runs Through It by Nancy Stapleton, Date Night at the Fourth Lock by Helen Earley, and Failure’s Paradise by Jeremy Hull.


Located in the heart of Nova Scotia is a historic waterway that connects the Halifax Harbour to the Bay of Fundy. That’s right, 114km long and winding through the entire province, one coast to the other, this natural beauty is called the Shubenacadie Canal Waterway. A hidden gem right under your nose here in Nova Scotia, many know of its unique history, and inspiring scenery, but did you know it is also the perfect place to plan an amazing getaway?

Flowing from town to town, lined with incredible businesses and parks, here, you can truly plan a trip with a combination of your favourite interests. From hiking the many nature trails to grabbing a meal at a local cafe, shopping local to spending an unforgettable night in a riverside accommodation - The Shubenacadie Canal is a traveler’s paradise.

There is actually so much to see and do in this area of the province that it can be hard to decide! We recently spent time in the area, and here is our suggested itinerary for exploring the canal in one day:

  1. Breakfast in Dartmouth - We love Two if by Sea Cafe

  2. Visit the Fairbanks Centre and paddle through Shubie Park

  3. Hike (or bike) the Shubie trail section to the Portobello Incline Plane

  4. Enjoy lunch in Enfield - We loved our meal from Rob Bitar’s

  5. Visit a local shop - there are tons to choose from, we visited Sweet Spot Chocolate Shop

  6. Visit the Tinsmith Museum

  7. Grab a drink at Coldstream Clear

  8. Stay at Riverside accommodation - We stayed at Gravity Luxury Domes

  9. Visit the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre

  10. Have Lunch in Maitland

1.   Breakfast in Dartmouth - We love Two If By Sea Cafe
Starting your day in the downtown Dartmouth area you will find there are tons of fantastic cafes and breakfast spots to choose from. Hypnotized by the comforting smell of buttery baked goods and coffee, our first stop on this trip was the lively Two If By Sea Cafe. Featuring a bright and cozy atmosphere, we indulged in homemade prosciutto and provolone croissants paired with their locally sourced Anchored Coffee. While this would be the perfect spot to linger over a cuppa, meet a friend, or read a book - the Shubenacadie Canal was calling our names!

2. Visit the Fairbanks Centre and paddle through the Shubie Canal
Diving into our adventure-filled day, we made a visit to the Fairbanks Center at the entrance of Shubie Park. Open to the public year-round and free of charge to visit, this Centre features exhibits and displays showing how the Canal waterway works, providing visitors an insight into the area’s rich history and natural environment. There’s even a scale model of the locks along the canal! Next to the Fairbanks Centre, you will find an outlet to rent kayaks, canoes, and paddle boards from Wildwood Water Sports. Or, if you have your own boating gear you can bring it here and there are many places to launch. Offering a perfect place to experience a peaceful paddling adventure, you will fall in love with the waterway's lush forest surroundings and natural beauty. We actually brought our dogs along with us in the kayaks and they loved it! Accompanied by curious ducks beside us and beautiful songbirds above, we glided through the tranquil waters of Shubie Park, realizing what a gem of a unique experience this is within the city. But don’t worry, if you’re not a water enthusiast we encourage you still visit to check out the trails here.

3. Hike (or bike) the Shubie trail section to the Portobello Incline Plane
From Shubie Park you can drive 10 minutes down the road and between Lake Charles and Lake William find the Shubenacadie Portobello Incline Plane. Now a beautiful trail where picturesque waterside views await, it used to be the site of a marine railway (one of two along the canal) that carried vessels over a distance of approximately 600 feet horizontally, while lowering and raising them about 33 feet. Largely untouched since its use in the 1870s there are now interpretive panels to inform visitors of what stood before them and is buried beneath the ground. We loved this area as a great spot to walk our dogs and take in the reflective views, imagining how different it would look with boats passing through over 150 years ago.

4. Enjoy lunch in Enfield - We loved our meal from Rob Bitar’s
As you roll into Elmsdale you will be hungry for a good lunch stop and treating yourself to Rob Bitar’s won’t disappoint. Recommended by so many people, we were excited to check it out! Our food was fresh, delicious, and the service was super friendly.

5. Visit a local shop - there are tons to choose from, we visited Sweet Spot Chocolate Shop
Craving something sweet, we popped into Sweet Spot Chocolate Shop before leaving Elmsdale. Browsing a selection of handcrafted chocolates, truffles, fudges, candy, and more, this is a chocolate lovers’ heaven! It was hard to decide because there was so much to choose from, but we ended up agreeing on chocolate peppermint patties and velvety truffles. Neither of which lasted long!

6.  Visit the Tinsmith Museum
Following the twisting and turning river north of Elmsdale, you will find the town of Shubenacadie and the Tinsmith Museum. Built in 1896 this fascinating store is filled to the brim with over a century’s worth of antique artifacts and displays. Everything from household goods, farm tools, clothing, furnished rooms, military displays, and more help visually tell the history of the building including the important role it played in manufacturing milk cans across Nova Scotia in the 1900s. There’s also a craft shop with locally made creations.

7. Grab a drink at Coldstream Clear
Next, we drove another 10 minutes down the road to the town of Stewiacke. Here you can wave hello to the life-size replica of a mastodon, play mini golf, hike a nature trail, or visit the Coldstream Clear Distillery tasting room. After a day of adventuring, we couldn’t resist a cold beverage. Specializing in handcrafted Nova Scotia spirits, we tried one of their signature cocktail flights - how beautiful does that look! They also have a lovely patio you can enjoy but by then it had started to rain so we stayed cozy inside.

8. Stay at Riverside accommodation - We stayed at Gravity Luxury Domes
Keeping with our Shubenacadie river theme, we found the perfect place nestled along the high banks of the river edge called Gravity Luxury Domes. Open year-round, this unique accommodation provides guests with a luxury glamping experience, each dome having its own stone patio, propane tabletop fireplace, and an incredible view of the Shubenacadie River. Immersed in nature, this location is fantastic for bird watching. We spotted multiple eagles from our dome window and even got to see some Shubie rafters playing in the waves below out experiencing the tidal bore. Lulled to sleep by peaceful rain hitting the dome, this is the perfect spot to get away from the hustle and bustle of daily life, while truly getting to experience the river’s beauty. In the morning, feeling refreshed from the comfortable night’s sleep, we enjoyed breakfast in bed with a view of the river. Love when places have full kitchen areas to make our own food!

Other Places we have stayed and loved nearby include:

  • Tidal Bore Rafting Resort

  • Cresthaven By the Sea

9. Visit the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre
Located in South Maitland, the Fundy Tidal Interpretive Centre is a fantastic place to learn about the world-famous Bay of Fundy tides and tidal bore - a natural wonder that occurs on the Shubenacadie river daily. We loved reading and learning about the history and wildlife in the area from the interpretive displays, followed by heading out to view the river from the observation deck. If you time your visit around the tidal bore schedule, you could even witness it pass by! We waved hello to the rafters below, a wonderful way to wrap up our appreciation for the Shubenacadie Canal.

10. Lunch in Maitland
Before heading home, we grabbed lunch at Canada’s oldest general store - Frieze and Roy and its in-house Mudslide Cafe. Their club sandwich and fries are so good!

Explore the Waterway: Failure's Paradise

By Jeremy Hull

This is the third article in a series of tourism stories about ways to enjoy the Shubenacadie Waterway, funded through the Shubenacadie Canal Commission’s Transitions project. Check out A River Runs Through It by Nancy Stapleton and Date Night at the Fourth Lock by Helen Earley, and check back soon for more!


The Shubenacadie Canal System ranks among the more costly missteps in the history of Nova Scotia. The canal operated as a shipping route, but the eastern branch (Halifax-Truro) of the Nova Scotia Railway opened in 1858, just a year after the system began operations. The canal enjoyed some successful years, but it was outperformed by rail, and closed in 1871. The project left Nova Scotians with a waterway that cuts through the middle of the province and unites the Atlantic Ocean with the Bay of Fundy. Communities arose with shared purpose along the system. The canal didn’t last as a shipping route, but it is a recreational success with intrepid explorers.

 

Jeremy fly fishing on Grand Lake.

 

There is poetry in planning a fishing trip on a failed canal. Anglers embrace frustration. There are more casts than there are fish, and there are plenty of days without a bite. Timmy and I grew up fishing along the Shubenacadie, behind his parent’s house. We know these waters, but we have a cursed history. When Timmy and I fish, something always goes wrong. I refuse to blame our poor planning or fishing abilities, so I maintain my superstitions.  

We schedule our departure for the last Friday in June, when the water is high enough to minimize portaging. We wake up to rain. Not a quiet drizzle. This is a steady coastal shower that promises to last all day. We stay back, watching the sky, and hoping Nova Scotia lives up to its reputation for rapid weather changes. After two hours the rain is still falling but we’ve been dreaming of fish all week. An uncomfortable morning is starting to feel like a small price to pay for a wild caught dinner cooked on a fire. Fortified by two pots of coffee, we put in south of Lock Four in Fall River, at ten thirty in the morning. Our canoe is old, but it’s seaworthy, even if Timmy and I are not. The right gunwale is warped, so the boat pulls to the left. It’s fine while the water remains calm, but white caps kick up on Grand Lake in high wind. The quirks in our old canoe could become concerns in rough water. Understand your equipment and respect your proficiency. Timmy and I focus on keeping our bow straight until we reach our first portage.

 

Timmy on the trail at the first portage.

 

We put back in at the southern tip of Fletcher’s Lake. Timmy reaches for his spinning rod. He’s brought an arsenal of tackle to land one of the big chain pickerel in Fletcher’s. By eleven we both have a line in the water, and we aren’t worried about the rain anymore. Timmy strikes first, landing a smallmouth bass. We decide it’s not big enough to keep, but it’s encouraging to be on the board. 

 

Not a keeper.

 

The next fish to rise is so long it looks like an eel when it rolls. It’s a big pickerel. Timmy is using a plastic frog, skimming it over the water with little tugs so it looks alive. The fish buys the ruse and snaps up the lure. Timmy pulls the line up tight and reels it in. I reach for the net, but the fish shakes free just as it’s breaking the surface. We watch it disappear into the depths and take a moment to lament our loss. Timmy casts to the same spot and soon enough, he hooks the fish again. I reach for the net, but this pike is clever enough to spit out a plastic frog twice, even if it’s foolish enough to bite on it more than once. We fish the spot for another fifteen minutes but this fish has learned its lesson. When the rain starts falling in sheets, we decide we’ve been outsmarted and that it’s time to set up camp.

 

Paddling on Grand Lake.

 

A short paddle brings us through Lock Five into Shubenacadie Grand Lake. We reach our camp site at Laurie Provincial Park after a relaxing, if wet, morning on the water. The walk-in sites at Laurie are situated on the banks of the lake. We’ve booked online so we can pull our canoe right up and find a perfect spot to swing a hammock. With our gear off the ground, we spend our time casting from shore and turning our campsite into a cozy lounge. Timmy calls out while I’m building the fire. I arrive at the end of a short fight, and watch a twenty-four-inch fish, rolling in like a log.

 
 

Timmy and I came by our fishing acumen patrilineally. Our fathers taught us that pickerel aren’t worth eating. While Timmy’s been strategizing to catch one, I’ve been researching how to cook one. I mangle the first fillet because I’m too impatient to sharpen my knife, but I correct the mistake and the second side comes away clean. I forgot my salt, so I season it with crushed cashew dust, dehydrated coconut milk, curry, and lime. The dense white meat reminds me of swordfish. Exhausted, dry, and full, we turn in ater dinner. The crib board doesn’t even make an appearance.

 
 

We pack out early the second morning. We’re meeting friends to camp on the western side of Grand Lake. We can’t resist fishing enroute, and I get on the board early when I catch a nice bass. It’s encouraging to have a start on dinner when we collect our friends. We paddle up the western bank and choose a spot from among the campsites peaking through the trees in Sleepy Cove. This area is Crown Land and people are welcome to use the cleared sites so long as they leave no trace. We’re happy with the one we’ve chosen when the bass start biting at sundown. We catch our fill and prepare a backcountry dinner party. The stories begin when the first log hits the fire.

 
 

Campers planning an overnight adventure on the Shubenacadie River Canal would do well to make for the Western Bank of Grand Lake. Anglers should pack a spinning rod with live bait, a selection of lures, and a frog to attract large pickerel. Fly fishers will find shallow shelves along the banks, making most sites perfect for wading. I had success with a custom-tied purple mayfly, but once the bass started biting, they were taking just about everything we gave them.

 
 

Nova Scotians are successors to a failed canal that illustrates the wisdom of anglers. When you cast enough line, you’re bound to catch something. A gaff as large as a canal is a perfect setting for failures to gather by fires, tell stories, and dream of large fish.

All photos credit to Jeremy Hull.

Legacy donation to help the Shubenacadie Canal Commission

Betty Anderson (L) and Keith Manchester (R)

The Shubenacadie Canal Commission (SCC) is pleased to recognize a legacy donation from the estate of Betty Anderson.

Betty Anderson moved from Ottawa in the 1960s and went to work at the Bedford Institute of Oceanography (BIO). Betty stayed at BIO in the position of Chief Purchasing until the 1980s when she retired.  It was during her time at BIO that she met Keith and Carol Manchester, and Mike Hughes. Both Keith and Mike are past Commissioners. Keith served as a Chair and Mike a commissioner and even after their appointments, both stayed on as active volunteers. 

Betty was given insight into the work of the commission during her friendship with the Manchester’s. Keith often spoke about the canal history and the work volunteers were doing to preserve or improve the canal.  As it happens the Manchester’s back patio overlooked a section of the Shubenacadie Canal Waterway between Lake Thomas and Lake Fletcher. Betty was very interested in the stories about the canal and in 2003, Betty joined the Manchester’s on their trip to the World Canal Conference in Dublin, Ireland.  Betty had a wonderful time and met many canal enthusiasts and joined them in touring the Irish Canals.  Over the years Betty would inquire about other conferences and what projects the SCC was working on.  A shared passion for the history of the canal and its preservation, is one of the reasons that Betty left a very generous gift to the Shubenacadie Canal Commission. 

We are grateful for this legacy donation, and it will be used for a project supporting the Bicentennial Celebration and recognition will be at that site.  Betty will also be recognized on our wall of giving at the Fairbanks Interpretive Centre.


More about planned giving can be found here https://www.shubenacadiecanal.ca/planned-giving